TK Adventures – July 2021.  

Part 1 – Adelaide to Coober Pedy

I was so delighted to receive the call from the Production Team at What’s Up
Downunder asking me to join the crew in South Australia for a 10 day film shoot
which would see us travelling from Adelaide to Coober Pedy. During which time,
we would record four episodes for the caravan and camping lifestyle program.

It had been over a year since I’d filmed any shows with them due to the Covid
lockdown in Victoria, which is where the Production team is based. I was really
looking forward to seeing all the gang again! Before you could say, “we’ve got an
all out camp out party going on…” I was packed and flying south to Adelaide from
sunny Queensland.

I was amazed just how dry the countryside was flying into South Australia, it
seemed they had missed out on any summer rain. Nevertheless, the city itself,
affectionately known as ‘the city of Churches’, looked magnificent to me. I think it
was the heritage architecture and abundant rose bushes in full bloom in almost
everyone’s front garden that took me by surprise, I did not expect to see that at
all. I love that Adelaide and it’s surroundings have such pride in its historical
buildings and a strong sense of maintaining heritage listed properties.

I met up with my long-time mate and co-host of the show, Macca along with the
production crew, at the Levi Adelaide Holliday Park, where we spent our first
night. Surrounded by tall gum trees, lovely manicured gardens which backed
onto a creek with beautiful walking paths. Only a few k’s from the city, Levi
Holiday Park is the perfect place to base yourself whilst exploring Adelaide.

Next morning, recharged and ready to hit the blacktop, we drove a few minutes
up the road to EZYtrail Camper Trailers, our sponsors for this adventure.

I would be towing a Winton 18 Quad, whilst Macca would be towing the same
however, his was set up for more ‘off-roading’ than mine. I’ll tell you more about
those caravans a little later.

Once we got hitched up we were soon in convoy travelling along the Explorers
Way, to our first destination for this trip, the township of Burra. The further we
drove out of Adelaide, the landscape widened and the horizon expanded around
me. I had that Dixie Chicks song, Wide Open Spaces, playing in my head, as I
was driving along.

The countryside looked perfect for grazing sheep and growing crops. The farms
along this route had massive hay sheds which were packed to the rafters with
lovely big square bales of hay. It had me thinking despite the current dry
conditions, the farmers looked like they had had a good season.

I couldn’t help but notice driving through some of the smaller towns like
Rivertown and Saddleworth, on our way to Burra, the stone buildings dating back
to the early 1900’s. They had been meticulously maintained, there was definitely
a sense of pride in these little communities.

As soon as we pulled into Burra, I knew I was going to love this little town! Did
you know Burra is Heritage listed? I sure did not! Being Heritage listed means
that the fabulous 19th Century buildings, with some of the most stunning
architectural features I had ever seen, will continue to stand tall and proud for
generations to come. I personally think it is an absolute shame to see majestic
buildings torn down in the name of ‘progress’… South Australia, as a State,
seems to have a great deal of pride in its history and it really does set them apart
from all of the other States and Territories that I have visited, perhaps other than
Tasmania.

We set up camp at the Burra Caravan Park where we would be based for the
next couple of nights. Actually, whilst I was towing the new EZYtrail caravan
specifically to showcase during this trip, my accomodation, along with the crew,
would be a combination of cabins, motel rooms and a couple of nights staying in
the Ezy-trail. However, our accom in Burra was Paxton Square Cottages Lodge.
The cottages were miners’ cottages back in the day, although nowadays, they
have been beautifully refurbished with all the mod cons you’d come to expect.
Built from huge sandstone blocks, the rooms were super quiet and the bed was
amazingly comfortable!

Burra began its life in 1846 as the mining township of Kooringa. By 1851 it had
become a collection of towns known as Burra Burra with a population of 5000. It
was Australia’s seventh largest town and largest inland centre, prior to the
discovery of gold in eastern Australia. Burra was home to one of the largest
copper mines of the world.

Next morning we kicked things off with breakfast at the Gaslight Cafe in town.
This little cafe is definitely worth dropping into for a coffee and a snack. Apart
from serving yummy food and drinks, it is jammed packed full of bits and pieces
galore. You’ll find secondhand books, period crockery and glassware, pottery,
silverware, local arts and craft, through to handmade soaps and trendy bath
bombs, it literally has something for everyone, so no excuse to leave empty
handed or at the very least, a full tummy!

The lady who ran the Gaslight cafe was so interesting to chat with. She was
telling me about how the miners wives used to make a ‘two course’ lunch for their
husbands to take to work. The dish was called a Tiddy Oggie. Based on the
traditional Cornish recipe pasties, 2/3 was savoury, filled with a meat and
vegetable combination whilst the other 1/3 of the pastie was apple pie. These
pasties also had a pastry handle so the miners wouldn’t drop them on the
ground. I could have chattered with her for hours but our filming schedule had us
under the pump!

About a 20 minute drive from Burra is home to Pike Winery, located in the Clare
Valley region. I was particularly excited to be filming a story about Pikes, as I’d
heard about the signature Riesling, which I was chomping at the bit to try.
The Pike Family also recently introduced a boutique brewery into the business. So,
their winery, brewery and ‘hatted’ Slate Restaurant, really caters for everyone’s
taste. True to their Riesling’s reputation, it did not disappoint! Not too sweet, not
too dry, just right!

Gaslight Cafe

Pike Winery

Crystal Brook – here we come !

No traffic jams here

Next day we hitched up our caravans and continued our journey to Coober Pedy.
However, this part of our journey would see Macca and I taking two very different
routes. He was going off track whilst I was sticking to the blacktop.

We said our hoo-roos, ‘see ya in Coober Pedy’ and I made my way to Port
Augusta along with Jack and James, our cameramen and our director, Danny.

Our drive took us through the quaint little town of Crystal Brook. The town was
named in 1839 when explorer Edward John Eyre discovered a crystal stream
running through the area. The actual creed was a bit dry when we drove through,
but no doubt, given a good wet season, it would be flowing and a refreshing sight
to see.

Crystal Creek is still steeped in history and this is evident by taking a stroll down
Bowman Street. There are many interesting plaques detailing the stories of our
forefathers who established the town and how those men and women survived in
some of the harshest conditions.

If you are in the area, make sure you stop in at the bakery for one of their famous
pastries and for something a little sweet, you can’t go past the apple slices!
Fuelled up, we continued our journey to Port Augusta.

Formerly a seaport, Port Augusta is now a road traffic and railway junction city
located on the east side of the Spencer Gulf, with the west side located on the
Eyre Peninsula. This place is a city of contrast. Whilst there is a big emphasis on
industry with nearly every second person donning hi-vis work wear, the city
centre itself has a lovely garden with inviting green lawns and well manicured
garden beds. The pubs are good places for a cold drink and a hardy meal after a
long day. If however, you are looking for something a little more trendy and you
are a big fan of ‘good’ coffee, try Archers Table, they also do a great breakfast.

Whilst in this part of S.A, we drove to the township of Quorn to film a story at the
Quandong Cafe. I remember coming to Quorn many years ago to perform here
at a big music festival. People came from all across the country to attend. I
remember seeing “boys in boots” everywhere!

Stewed, dried or raw, the Quandong is one of Australia’s most versatile bush
foods — so versatile in fact that it can also be used to aid with foot massages or
cure toothache. The native fruit, a member of the sandalwood family, grows
throughout arid and semi-arid areas of Australia. In far-west New South Wales
the fruit trees are sought out and cultivated, and are one of the few
drought-tolerant fruit trees. The fruit is full of vitamin C, and when dried, they’ll
keep for eight years, and the seeds can be used for essential oils.

Owner /operator of the Quandong Cate, Pat, hand makes just about everything
they serve using Quandongs as their main ingredient. Their menu ranges from
cheesecakes to scones, tarts and chutneys even a Quandong Dog, which is
kinda like a hotdog with Quandong chutney! I was thinking I shouldn’t have had
that apple slice back in Crystal Brook because I was already full when I arrived at
the Quandong Cafe. I did not want to be rude so I just HAD to try a few of Pat’s
creations, as part of the interview I did with her, of course! Oh gosh the things
one does to make good TV lol… So I waddled out of the Quandong Cafe a kilo
heavier, and continued our travels…

On our way back to Port Augusta we received a phone call advising, there was a
slight hiccup with our motel accommodation in Port Augusta that night, so we
unexpectedly had to hitch up the EZY-trail and drive to Woomera. Only 180 kms
drive up the road, however I knew the journey would take us at least 3 or 4 hours
because we are making a TV show. There is an awful lot of stopping and starting
along the way in order to capture ‘that magic’ shot! Nevertheless, I don’t mind
driving and this route takes us through some pretty spectacular, vast and ever
changing landscape, it felt to me like we were starting to get into the ‘real’
outback.

I have often wondered, when is it that you are actually in the Outback! It was
during the drive to Woomera that it dawned on me. I reckon it’s when people who
are driving towards you exchange a ‘hello’ by raising their forefinger from their
steering wheel. That gesture to me is kinda like them saying, “g’day mate,
welcome to the outback, enjoy your journey”. I’ve seen it when I have driven west
of Roma into outback Queensland, along the Gibb River Road in Western
Australia, across the long stretches of the Nullarbor and now, about 100km north
of Port Augusta, South Australia.

During our drive to Woomera, I was wishing that I could have been a passenger.
The landscape was simply breathtaking and I wanted to capture it all. I can
understand now how artists like Albert Namajeria were inspired by this vast
country of ours. His work definitely depicted the colours of the outback, every
shade of red, orange, gold, pink, blue, green can be seen out here.

When we are filming these episodes, often the camera crew will have me pull
over on the side of the road and wait five or six minutes so they can go ahead to
set up their cameras and drone to capture the next shot. Whilst I was pulled over
waiting for them, I turned the Ram engine off and I soaked in the absolute
quietness of my surrounds. 360 degrees around me, there is literally nothing to
interrupt the view. The ochre of the earth melted into the sunset, ah the serenity!

Thank you for reading Part 1 of 3, my journey from Adelaide to Coober Pedy.
Next time, here in the TK Club, we will arrive in the fascinating town of Woomera.

Happy Travels, love Tania xx